![]() ![]() “We ventured into newer territory this season with tailoring,” Vevers explained, adding: “There’s a sense of play, too - in the colorful bags, the footwear and the jewelry - that make the collection feel joyful.” For the occasion, the British designer put out an exuberant, elevated take on what he called the “American essentials,” he said over email to CNN, which included slouchy suits and oversized leather jackets in black, brown and green, long sheer dresses over leather separates and lipstick-kiss bags. The show, which included an unexpected PETA protest on the runway, marked Stuart Vevers’ 10th anniversary as creative director. Helmut Lang returns to the runway, with ascendant designer Peter Do at the helm Do hit many notes of the label’s original aesthetic, while infusing his own romantic sensibilities (including a collaboration with poet Ocean Vuong) into the collection, particularly with his men’s and women’s suiting. The week’s packed schedule officially kicked off Friday with Peter Do’s highly anticipated debut for Helmut Lang, with the ascendant Vietnamese-born designer given the chance to reinterpret the minimalist ’90s brand - which spent years without a creative director - for a new generation. And there were brand ‘birthdays’ to consider too, such as the 10th anniversary of designer Rio Uribe’s label Gypsy Sport. New York Fashion Week is back, taking the city by storm - during a long weekend’s worth of thundery weather, no less - and hosting a number of landmark events, including the return of brands like Ralph Lauren and 3.1 Phillip Lim to the calendar, as well as debuts from up-and-coming designers like Grace Ling and recent “Project Runway: All Stars” winner Bishme Cromartie.
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